Roadbike with aluminium wheels in mountains. Is it safe?












7














I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety







share|improve this question




















  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago
















7














I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety







share|improve this question




















  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago














7












7








7







I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety







share|improve this question















I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety




wheels safety






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 8 hours ago







Dariusz

















asked 8 hours ago









DariuszDariusz

1757




1757








  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago














  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago








5




5




I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago




I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago












I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
– Dariusz
7 hours ago




I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
– Dariusz
7 hours ago












No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago




No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago




1




1




@Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
– Andy P
7 hours ago




@Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
– Andy P
7 hours ago




2




2




@AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
– Chris H
4 hours ago




@AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
– Chris H
4 hours ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















6














I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






share|improve this answer





























    6














    There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



    Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






    share|improve this answer





























      6














      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






      share|improve this answer























      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
        – Carel
        3 hours ago











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      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes








      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      6














      I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
      What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



      Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

      The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



      I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



      To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






      share|improve this answer


























        6














        I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
        What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



        Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

        The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



        I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



        To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






        share|improve this answer
























          6












          6








          6






          I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
          What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



          Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

          The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



          I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



          To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






          share|improve this answer












          I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
          What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



          Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

          The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



          I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



          To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 7 hours ago









          MikeMike

          3,34611026




          3,34611026























              6














              There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



              Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






              share|improve this answer


























                6














                There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






                share|improve this answer
























                  6












                  6








                  6






                  There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                  Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






                  share|improve this answer












                  There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                  Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 7 hours ago









                  Andy PAndy P

                  3,305713




                  3,305713























                      6














                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago
















                      6














                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago














                      6












                      6








                      6






                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






                      share|improve this answer














                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.







                      share|improve this answer














                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer








                      edited 3 hours ago









                      David Richerby

                      10.2k33251




                      10.2k33251










                      answered 6 hours ago









                      Carbon side upCarbon side up

                      1,409214




                      1,409214












                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago


















                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago
















                      Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                      – Carel
                      3 hours ago




                      Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                      – Carel
                      3 hours ago


















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