Roadbike with aluminium wheels in mountains. Is it safe?












7














I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety







share|improve this question




















  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago
















7














I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety







share|improve this question




















  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago














7












7








7







I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety







share|improve this question















I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.






wheels safety




wheels safety






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 8 hours ago







Dariusz

















asked 8 hours ago









DariuszDariusz

1757




1757








  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago














  • 5




    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago










  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
    – Dariusz
    7 hours ago










  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
    – Klaster_1
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
    – Andy P
    7 hours ago






  • 2




    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
    – Chris H
    4 hours ago








5




5




I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago




I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago












I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
– Dariusz
7 hours ago




I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.
– Dariusz
7 hours ago












No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago




No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.
– Klaster_1
7 hours ago




1




1




@Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
– Andy P
7 hours ago




@Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes
– Andy P
7 hours ago




2




2




@AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
– Chris H
4 hours ago




@AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin
– Chris H
4 hours ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















6














I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






share|improve this answer





























    6














    There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



    Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






    share|improve this answer





























      6














      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






      share|improve this answer























      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
        – Carel
        3 hours ago











      Your Answer








      StackExchange.ready(function() {
      var channelOptions = {
      tags: "".split(" "),
      id: "126"
      };
      initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

      StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
      // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
      if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
      StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
      createEditor();
      });
      }
      else {
      createEditor();
      }
      });

      function createEditor() {
      StackExchange.prepareEditor({
      heartbeatType: 'answer',
      autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
      convertImagesToLinks: false,
      noModals: true,
      showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
      reputationToPostImages: null,
      bindNavPrevention: true,
      postfix: "",
      imageUploader: {
      brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
      contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
      allowUrls: true
      },
      noCode: true, onDemand: true,
      discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
      ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
      });


      }
      });














      draft saved

      draft discarded


















      StackExchange.ready(
      function () {
      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f58798%2froadbike-with-aluminium-wheels-in-mountains-is-it-safe%23new-answer', 'question_page');
      }
      );

      Post as a guest















      Required, but never shown

























      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes








      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      6














      I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
      What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



      Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

      The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



      I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



      To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






      share|improve this answer


























        6














        I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
        What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



        Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

        The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



        I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



        To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






        share|improve this answer
























          6












          6








          6






          I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
          What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



          Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

          The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



          I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



          To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






          share|improve this answer












          I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
          What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



          Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

          The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



          I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



          To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 7 hours ago









          MikeMike

          3,34611026




          3,34611026























              6














              There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



              Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






              share|improve this answer


























                6














                There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






                share|improve this answer
























                  6












                  6








                  6






                  There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                  Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






                  share|improve this answer












                  There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                  Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 7 hours ago









                  Andy PAndy P

                  3,305713




                  3,305713























                      6














                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago
















                      6














                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago














                      6












                      6








                      6






                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






                      share|improve this answer














                      When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.







                      share|improve this answer














                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer








                      edited 3 hours ago









                      David Richerby

                      10.2k33251




                      10.2k33251










                      answered 6 hours ago









                      Carbon side upCarbon side up

                      1,409214




                      1,409214












                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago


















                      • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                        – Carel
                        3 hours ago
















                      Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                      – Carel
                      3 hours ago




                      Also heavy duty tubes maybe!
                      – Carel
                      3 hours ago


















                      draft saved

                      draft discarded




















































                      Thanks for contributing an answer to Bicycles Stack Exchange!


                      • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

                      But avoid …



                      • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

                      • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


                      To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.





                      Some of your past answers have not been well-received, and you're in danger of being blocked from answering.


                      Please pay close attention to the following guidance:


                      • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

                      But avoid …



                      • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

                      • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


                      To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




                      draft saved


                      draft discarded














                      StackExchange.ready(
                      function () {
                      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f58798%2froadbike-with-aluminium-wheels-in-mountains-is-it-safe%23new-answer', 'question_page');
                      }
                      );

                      Post as a guest















                      Required, but never shown





















































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown

































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown







                      -

                      Popular posts from this blog

                      Hivernacle

                      Image
                      Hivernacle Hivernacle a les cases del Salt a Alcoi Un hivernacle és una construcció més o menys permanent que permet modificar el microclima del seu interior i permetre el conreu de vegetals en millors condicions o fora d'època. [1] Són el nivell superior de l'anomenat conreu protegit que va des d'un mínim que correspon a l'ús de plàstics que cobreixen el terra (mulching) fins al màxim que serien els hivernacles de vidre i amb un sistema complet de calefacció. Etimològicament la paraula hivernacle es refereix al lloc on passen l'hivern les plantes. En la pràctica actual s'hi mantenen tota la temporada de conreu o més. Contingut 1 Funcionament 2 Evolució en l'ús dels hivernacles 3 Característiques constructives dels hivernacles 4 Hivernacles als Països Baixos 5 Referències Funcionament Els que no tenen calefacció aprofiten precisament l'efecte hivernacle que produeix un escalfame
                      Read more

                      Fluorita

                      Image
                      Fluorita Fluorita (blau) amb pirita (daurat). Fórmula química CaF 2 Epònim fluor Localitat tipus Jáchymov Classificació Categoria Halurs Nickel-Strunz 10a ed. 3.AB.25 Nickel-Strunz 9a ed. 3.AB.25 Nickel-Strunz 8a ed. III/A.08 Dana 9.2.1.1 Heys 8.4.7 Propietats Sistema cristal·lí Cúbic Hàbit cristal·lí Sol presentar cubs; menys freqüentment dodecaedres. De vegades hexaoctaedres i tetrahexaedres. Per la combinació d'aquestes formes, les arestes dels cubs són sovint modificades. De vegades els cristalls poden presentar diferències de creixement entre les cares. Sovint s'observen cristalls compostos per sobrecreixement. Pot ser massiva, compacta, terrosa, columnar (poc freqüent), globular en agregats o botroïdal. Estructura cristal·lina a = 5.4626Å Simetria Classe (H-M): m 3 m (4/ m 3 2/ m ) - Hexoctaèdric; Grup espacial: Fm 3 m Color Blanc, groc, verd, violeta, vermell, rosa, blau o negre Mac
                      Read more

                      Hulsita

                      Image
                      Hulsita Hulsita de la localitat tipus Fórmula química Fe 2+ 2 Fe 3+ O 2 BO 3 Epònim Alfred Hulse Brooks Localitat tipus mont Brooks, península de Seward, Nome Borough, Alaska, Estats Units Classificació Categoria borats Nickel-Strunz 10a ed. 6.AB.45 Nickel-Strunz 9a ed. 6.AB.45 Nickel-Strunz 8a ed. V/G.03 Dana 24.2.3.1 Heys 9.6.4 Propietats Sistema cristal·lí monoclínic Estructura cristal·lina a = 10,68Å; b = 3,09Å; c = 5,43Å; β = 94,15° Color negre Macles en [001]; un membre de la macla es troba girat 120° en relació a l'altre Exfoliació bona en {110} Duresa 3 Lluïssor vítria, submetàl·lica Densitat 4,28 g/cm 3 (mesurada); Més informació Estatus IMA mineral heretat (G) i mineral heretat (G) Any d'aprovació 1908 Referències [1] La hulsita és un mineral de la classe dels borats, que pertany al grup de la pinakiolita. Rep el seu nom en honor del nord-americà
                      Read more